Sunday, April 5, 2015

BUKHANSAN NATIONAL PARK

Waking up Saturday morning, Holy Saturday and the day before Easter, I decided to go on a personal spiritual journey by exploring South Korea's very popular Bukhansan National Park. It was supposed to be rainy today, however the sky looked clear and I decided a nice long walk would be fun. So, I set off by taking the subway to Dobongsan, part of the mountains that encircle the city of Seoul! After exiting the subway, I was not sure which way to go. So, I exit the closest door out of the station and after seeing a beautiful mountain view, I felt like I needed to figure out what direction I was facing. I decided I was on the wrong side and decided to go back through and exit on the other side of the station. Ah! There's the mountain I wanted to see!



 Now, it was time to figure out where the trail begins. I see a nicely paved trail but it looks like it goes a direction away from the mountain, so of course, I decide to find another trail that looks like it is rugged and ready to go up. I take a nice walk through a little neighborhood where there are farmers tending their land. I came across a small Budhist area with stone statues and realized this was their sacred place to pray. After exploring a bit more, I decided there weren't any hiking trails in sight and decided to use my hand made Korean book to practice my Korean on one of the store owners. Here, I say "Excuse me, Hello. Can you help me. I am lost" He quickly comes to the rescue as I explain with hand gestures that I am looking to hike the mountain. He points me in the right direction and off I go. "Good bye. Thank you very much!" I knew I was going back to the trail I had seen originally, but wanted to have some fun speaking with the locals to try out my book. Now, it's 10:00 am.



This time, I could tell where the trail began because right by the exit to the subway station, there were a pack of hikers with their backpacks that I decided to follow. Unlike me, they sure seemed to know where to go! As I studied the gear these other travelers had with them to embark on this journey, I could tell that I was quite unprepared with my only pair of tennis shoes that I had. I did not have hiking boots or gloves like they did, nor did I have the walking sticks (ski poles...) I saw sticking out of their backpacks. The trail begins by passing through the city streets of Dobongsan with lots of mountain gear stores and little "last minute" food for the hikers to get any necessary supplies before the long trek up the mountain. I knew I was good, as I brought a lunch from home to picnic on the mountain. It wasn't long before we, the other Korean hikers and me (the only American and sticking out like a sore thumb), hit the real trail and stopped at the map to figure out which trail to hike. I looked around and saw that there was a diverse age group of people hiking today, but not an American in site. So, after reviewing the map and looking at the others mapping out their course, I decided to take the trail to Uiam Rock because it passes by several Ancient Budhist Temples, the Cheonjinsa Temple and the Dobongsa Temple.  I've never seen one and was quite curious about what they looked like. To tell the truth, I also decided that the much older Koreans seemed to like this trail, pointing to it with their sticks, and with my not having proper hiking gear, this would be my safest route.




It was incredibly beautiful and serene. Waterfalls, streams running alongside the trail, and a large variety of leaves on the ground left over from the winter.  Many of the Koreans leisurely laid out their blankets to picnic along side areas by the water, however, my goal was to make it to Uiam before stopping to rest. With the sun peaking through a bit of the clouds and a breath of fresh air, I was in my zone and on my way. Listening only to the sound of so many Koreans and their conversation, I followed happily just taking it all in. Making my way up the mountain included carefully picking the rocks I would step on to make it to the top. These trails had some easy walking too and some occasional stairs, but for the most part, you had to select the rocks to step on and stay close to the right side of the narrow trail as others passing down the mountain needed the other side and it was pretty crowded this Saturday morning.




Uiam Rock

City view from Uiam Rock

I finally made my way to Uiam Rock, a 2.6 km hike, and was completely in awe! Here, there were so many beautiful trees and plants, and the scenery would take your breath away. This is where I decided to rest and have lunch before heading back down. That is until I met Yang. He noticed me studying the map and asked in very broken English, where I was headed. I said I would love to continue up the mountain, pointing to the peak at the top, but did not have the shoes or hiking gear. He handed me his walking stick, showed me how to hold it correctly, and said "not too far, I will show you the trail". So, how can I turn down my own personal "sherpa", so to speak, and off we went. Making small talk along the way, but mostly following him as he clicked on the steps I should take, I quickly realized I may not be able to make it to the top. The elevation was getting higher and the air was getting thinner and I was using all my strength in my legs to climb. Stopping several times to catch my breath, Yang was so patient as I caught my next wind. "Ne (means yes), Ok, I am ready now" I would say. Up we went! Steeper and steeper, I thought my legs were going to give out! If Yang had not been my personal trail guide and motivator, I'm not sure I could have done this. He tells me that we are heading (along with all the other "young" hikers),  to Shinseondae Peak. Shin means God and this is the highest point on the mountain that you can get to by hiking and has been said to have powerful spirits. It is a faith inspiring place that when you get to the very top is so very special and a personal time for you to pray to God. Enough said, I will continue to the top! Thank you, Yang!


Shinseondae Peak



Struggling a bit was an understatement and using rope and guard rails to pull myself up took all my strength, but I proudly make it to the top! I have to say, if you have a fear of heights, this will really get you. The peak, or rock, we were standing on doesn't have much room and it is so crowded as many people are coming and going. Well, I do have a fear of heights, and I had to sit down just to feel safe because the railings were so close to the edge making me quite uneasy! I really wanted to stay for a bit and watch the other people work so hard to make it to the top too.






It was so refreshing, and it is here, that Yang and I go our own separate ways as he is taking the other side of the mountain to return home. So, I stay on the peak, carefully take a few pictures, and cling to the rock resting. After finally getting my courage up to stand and get closer to the railings, I bravely make it to the edge to take some more pictures.




Then, a nice older Korean gentleman and his wife come over to talk to me. I had been practicing how to say "Your country is beautiful" in Korean and this was my chance! They speak English fairly well and we got in to a conversation about where he had been in the U.S., his family that he is so proud of, and that he was born in Japan. They tell me they are taking an "easy" way down and they will show me the way if I'd like to join them. Yes! I have tour guides to walk me back down. Insook and K.S., lead the way! Generously, he offers me his walking stick, and Insook offers me her right hand glove.


The trip down was just as difficult if not more, with my aching knees. And it is 4:30 p.m. now, by the time we start down the mountain. I learn that he is retired 10 years, making him 70 because in Korea they retire at 60, and she is 66. They hike every weekend. We had such a wonderful conversation stopping along the way to rest, discussing our children, their grandchildren, the native trees and shrubs to Korea, and even the history of Japan and Korea a bit. He says he has ill feelings toward Japan because of the history. I'm aware of these bits and pieces of the history and the reasons of these feelings that Koreans may have toward Japan. Much unlike me, though, I do not pry. They live in Gangnam, an elite part of Seoul, and after a full day of walking together down the mountain, they offer to take me on a future weekend hiking trip to a different mountain called Suraksan. Humming and singing on his walk back to the subway, K.S. makes me have memories of my Dad who always loved to sing and hum and whistle around the house. It makes me think somehow my Dad arranged this incredibly special day for me. Insook, K.S. and I trade emails and part ways at the subway station. It is now 7:30 p.m., and after a 9k hike, I'm exhausted but completely revived and spiritually alive! What a great Holy Saturday this turned out to be! Easter Sunday is my trip to the Christian church, Jubilee, in Seoul, with Kaye, the other elementary teacher from the Philippeans, and her friends. A new journey awaits!








No comments:

Post a Comment